Likewise, for a mains dimmer, we need to use the switch and dimmer parts separately, which means either abusing a 3-wire fluorescent analog dimmer by powering it from its switched-hot connection and using the line connection for the other end of the switch (digital dimmers will not work here) or using a 0-10V dimmer with a mains switch and a 0-10V to ELV (reverse phase control) interface module. We can't power a timer from a dimmed hot, so we need the dimmer to be on the load side of the timer, and for the dimmer to retain its setting when the power goes out.Keep in mind that the timer used must support a mechanical switch for 3-way functionality (timers that are part of digital switching/dimming systems like Leviton Vizia and Lutron Maestro are not suitable for this app) We need to have the timer control all the switching, which means using an electronic timer with 3-way support and having the dimmer's switch be used in place of the mechanical switch that would otherwise be used - it also means we have to use something other than a regular single-pole dimmer, too, as we can't feed a dimmed hot back to the "3-way" input on the timer.If you have a switch loop instead, you'll have to adjust things for your configuration (which will include routing neutral to the other box).īasically, we need to do two things to make a dimmer and a timer work together: and again, as a prerequisite, neutral must be present at at least one switch box (if neutral is present at neither switch box, one can mount the 0-10V to ELV interface at the fixture and use an Eaton/Cooper/Greengate TSW-MV timer instead of the Tork/NSi SS423, but this requires the switch wiring to be properly grounded)Īgain, see the wiring diagram below for details, assuming you are configured source-switch-switch-light.a length of 18/2 thermostat wire for the 0-10V wiring.an EcoSense LDCM (or equivalent: Cooper/Eaton, Leviton, and Hubbell all rebrand this product) 0-10V to ELV interface (if one can't find one of these, one can use a 4-gang metal box with 4-gang to 2-gang mud ring along with a Lutron BCI-0-10 and a Lutron PHPM-WBX instead of the LDCM, but that's a bit clunkier so it won't be shown here).a 0-10V dimmer with integral mains-rated switching (Lutron Diva DVSTV, Leviton IP710-DL, or equivalent - the Lutron Diva is depicted in the diagram).a Tork/NSi SS423 digital countdown timer.If you want countdown timer functionality instead of wall-clock/time-of-day/astronomic functionality, things get more complicated, as the 3-way capable countdown timers available insist on being on the load side of things. and, as a prerequisite, the circuit neutral needs to be available at at least one switch box (the dimmer needs it, if nothing else)įollow the diagram below for details (assuming a conventional setup with source-switch-switch-load - if you have a switch loop instead, you'll have to adjust things to work with it).a Lutron Skylark SF-10P or equivalent single-pole analog dimmer for 3-wire fluorescent ballasts,.an Intermatic EJ600 series astronomic/7-day timer (there are other Intermatic products, like the ST01, that can also work here, but they have other disadvantages, like needing a battery to work),.This is actually possible provided you get the correct dimmer and timer (instead of the first things that you find on the shelf at the nearest borg). Equivalent products should be available for IEC systems, I just am not familiar with them.) For an astronomic/wall-clock timer. (NB: This is all assuming North American wiring methods. State is also stored in software, so for instance you could dim or start a timer from both locations, switch allowing.Īnd, if the event logic doesn't work the way you want, you can change the software! With a smart switch platform like Insteon, you get to set up controls to work any way you like, because the hard decisions are done in software. But having the system know what you want is a real user-interface problem. The person clicking the switch doesn't know the timer turned it on. Suppose the timer is 2 minutes from finished, and someone throws the other 3-way. work out every possible combination of states and control inputs, and what you want to have happen in each case. These control inputs (and their meanings) are too complex for "steam wiring". You've got the timer, the dimmer, and two switches. The problem is, you have too many options all trying to control the switch.
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